In an article published in Marie Claire, dermatologists offered guidance on distinguishing between acne purges and acne breakouts for individuals starting skin-care routines with new products. They explained that acne purges typically last a few weeks and may be caused by the use of exfoliants, such as retinoids, alpha-hydroxy acids, scrubs, and peel pads. As the new products begin to work—breaking down materials that have built up in the pores—they may cause excess skin cells and oils to come to the surface at an accelerated rate, activating inflammation, microruptures in the follicles, and bacteria. The dermatologists noted that though the sudden formation of acne at the start of a new routine may be discouraging, individuals who stick with their regimen will see their acne disappear and their skin remain clearer in the long term. For a less severe purge, the experts suggested introducing new products to the skin once or twice weekly before commencing daily use. Additionally, visiting a dermatologist for a pre-exfoliant chemical peel or oral antibiotic may better clear the pores and minimize purging.
The experts further highlighted several factors individuals can pay attention to when trying to discern an acne purge from a breakout. These included:
- The timing and duration of the acne (breakouts may begin 2 weeks after a new product is used)
- The rate of healing (purges conclude after 6 weeks, but breakouts may continue beyond the 6-week mark)
- The ingredient list, which can include glycolic acid or trichloroacetic acid for exfoliants or shea butter and hydrating ingredients for breakout-causing products
- The location of the acne (cysts that appear in areas where the product was applied may be the result of purging).
Individuals who have recognized that their acne flare-up may be a breakout should stop using the new product and consult a dermatologist who can help them create individual acne treatment plans.